Srinagar, India

Srinagar, India
April 17, 1986

SRINAGAR/KASHMIR

Before I open up my next episode of the beautiful Dal Lake, I would like to thank all you kind folks who have accompanied me on this 1986 vacation in India and for all those who added their comments to “Clare’s Blog”. Thank you. God bless.

Srinagar city founded by king Pravarasena 11, well over 2,000 years ago is known for her beautiful Lakes in Kashmir, India. This city was a part of the Maurya Empire history has it there have been several rulers – Hindu, Buddhist and Muslim. The famous Arbar the Great established the Mughal rule in Srinagar and Kashmir Valley. In the year 1846 (101 years before Independence) the Treaty of Lahore was signed between the Sikh rulers and the British in Lahore that provided the British suzerainty over the Kashmir Valley and an independent and sovereign ruler Gulab Singh, ruler over of the region. Srinagar became part of his Kingdom, until 1947 when India received her Independence from the British.






During The Raj years the ruler of Kashmir did not allowed the British to build homes on Kashmir land, so they built on water and lived in Houseboats on Dal Lake. These British Houseboats have stayed on to become a symbol of the most beautiful Valley and is still there today. Houseboat living transfers you to another world.

Kashmir is dotted with villages surrounded by mountains, giving us this beautiful view from the Deluxe Houseboat.





Eric took several beautiful slides of this Deluxe Houseboat’s interior, shame I do not know how to add those photos off the slide to this site. Clare is not too familiar with steps that can be taken here to make it possible. Sorry about that.

M.T. Kenhard in 1888 was the designer of the first Houseboat in Srinagar named “Victory”. Tourists flock here during the summer months to stay on Dal Lake’s famous Houseboats, luxury floating caravans, reminders of The Raj, where the British families spent most of their summers away from those hot summers in the South of India.

On our first evening in Srinagar we took a shikara ride on Dal Lake to view the natural beauty God has graced this Lake area with, our ride was shortened by a heavy shower, forcing us back to the Houseboat.





Venders glide up to your doorstep in shikaras a floating market of fruits, flowers, shawls, jewelry, handicrafts and paper-mache boxes. Never in my lifetime did I ever think one day I would be blessed to stay in a Houseboat on Dal Lake. I have read about these houseboats, heard about these houseboats and seen them in movies, but never thought one day I would be staying on one with Eric. It was an exciting time for both Eric and I.

The Deluxe Houseboat we occupied had three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a dining room and an extra large living room where stood a pot-belly stove heater, and there was the porch in front with a seating area, a place where you haggled with the shikara boatmen for his sales.

Sandalwood is used through out the interior of this Houseboat, every piece deeply carved with Indian open pattern craftwork, so very Indian. Sleeping or just sitting in the Living room one felt another world present, the Kashmiri-style world.

All through this trip I have forgotten to mention the cuisine, all our meals have been great, no complaints from Eric or Clare. Being back in my birth country India and eating the true Indian cuisine is another plus to this vacation for me.

An early morning knock on our bedroom door and in comes the Houseboy with our morning tea on a tray, dressed with a flower in a vase, and a tea cozy on the tea-pot. I have not seen one of these tea cozies in use, since I left India in 1950. Could this be real me, being served morning tea in bed?



The Houseboy’s attire when serving is a white lab jacket accompanied with white gloves. Yes, I do feel uncomfortable being waited on by the Houseboy after having to do for myself since I left India.

After breakfast the Houseboy would ask us what would we like for the day’s meals, all three cooked meals. I recall him asking me would I like English food or Indian food for that day. You guessed correctly, it was Indian all through our visit to India, and it was lovely to be back in that saddle again, reliving our childhood days and eating the real Indian cuisine. What a life to have abandon.

Another one of The Raj’s most popular summer retreats was Mussoorie, once the home of Sir George Everest, the legendary Surveyor General who mapped Mount Everest, they say this area is rich in medical plants.

There are so many Legends in India, however this one baffles me.

“Legend has it when Pravarasena 11, decided to build himself a new Capital, to choose a location he started walking at Midnight and was confronted by a demon on the other side of the Mahasarit River. The demon spread his bent leg across the stream and dared the King to cross over it to the other side. The King cut off this bent leg with one stroke of his sword and calmly crossed over. The demon was so delighted with the King’s boldness and told him to build his city where he would find the beginnings of his plan laid out for him. To this day the waters of Dal Lake are separated from the Tsont-i-kul by a Sathu or Bund that is shaped like a bent leg”






TO AN EMPEROR A DREAM GARDEN
TO A TRAVELER AN IDYLL:

THE MUGHAL GARDENS:





These 17th century gardens, Shalimar, Nishat, Chashma, Shahi, were laid out by the Mughals and are the formal gardens of Srinagar. The air that day while touring these gardens was refreshingly cold and crisp, not that piercing cold one gets in England that goes through your bones. The views surrounding us were like looking into a storybook and seeing nothing but beautiful sites of Mother Nature, untouched by human hands.

Our two nights on this Deluxe Houseboat has come to a close, tomorrow we leave for our flight back to Delhi where we shall stay overnight at the Taj Mahal Hotel.

Leaving this haven was hard, but then, each departure was difficult for me to let go.

Meet you in Delhi.

God bless
Clare

Kharjuraho/Delhi

April 14, 1986
Kharjuraho/Delhi

On our arrival at Delhi, we were driven to The Maurya Sheraton Hotel at approximately 1640 hours, the short flight from Kharjuraho was quite comfortable. This hotel was like all Sheraton Hotels, nothing special about it.






The following morning tours were of Old and New Delhi, including visits to the Qutab Minar, Humayun’s Temple, India Gate, President’s House, Government buildings, Connaught Place, Red Fort, Raj Ghat, Shanti Vane and a drive through Chandni Chowk.

QUTAB MINAR: A minaret – calling people to prayer. Historians believe this was named after the first Turkish Sultan – Qutb-ud-din Aibak. Constructed in 1193 with 399 steps leading to the top.



THE IRON PILLAR: shown below was built during the Gupta, Hindu Empire 320 to about 350 AD. This pillar is made of sure iron that has never rusted. According to legend, per our tour guide, anyone who can encircle the pillar by standing with their back to the pillar and clasping their hands together will have their wish granted. Another failure for Clare, her wish was not granted.




INDIA GATE: is a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of WW1, which is illuminated with lights after Sunset. This monument was designed by Edwin Lufyens, dedicated to the country ten years later, by the Viceroy, Lord Irwin with the foundation stone laid by the Duke of Connaught in 1921.





CONNAUGHT PLACE: is Delhi’s largest financial, commercial and business center, designed by Robert Tur Russell in 1932, Chief Architect to the Government of India. Connaught Place’s Victorian architecture is modeled after the Royal Crescent in Bath, England.

CHANDNI CHOWK: is a shopping place with narrow lanes, shops on either sides and very crowded even the rickshaw bells can be heard here trying so hard to get through. Pure silk, jewelry and India’s precious stones are the top sales.






Tomorrow we have an early flight to Shringar. You must set your clock to meet us in Shringar, Kashmir to spend your night on a Deluxe Houseboat on the Dal Lake.

See you then, DV.

God bless
Clare

Kharjuraho

April 13, 1986
Kharjuraho, India

I do not seem to have much to say on my uninteresting stay at Kharjuraho. I guess it is because it had too much of the Eastern and Western Group of Temples. Being with another couple on this tour we had to be sociable. I stayed out of these Temple tours, one can only marvel at the craftsman’s ship on the exterior of these buildings that carried no meaning to both Eric and I.

But, here are a couple of photos to give you an idea of Kharjuraho and her Temples.






We spent the night at Hotel Jass Oberoi once again tired with the daily touring. If I recall correctly it rained making it a stay in evening for us.

We leave next morning for our flight from Kharjuraho to Delhi arriving there on Tuesday 15, April 1986.

Hope this short visit to Kharjuraho has not disconnected your interest to The Raj & Beyond, 1986 vacation.

Take rest, hope to see you in Delhi tomorrow.

God bless
Clare

Fatehpur Sikri/Agra

April 12, 1986
Fatehpur Sikri/Agra
India

I am glad you have decided to join me on this excursion of Fatehpur Sikri city, built 1571 at the orders of the Mughal Emperor, Akbar the Great. This great Emperor had a keen interest in architecture, literature and the arts.

Fatehpur Sikri city is approximately 26 miles west of Agra, the buildings at Fatehpur Sikri blended both Islamic and Hindu elements in their architectural style, Red Sandstone is the material used in this city. Fatehpur Sikri was the capital of the Mughal Empire for only 10-15 years. Due to the lack of an adequate water supply, Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned and is a Ghost City, to where Akbar never returned to his one time Capital. Within 20 years the Capital was shifted to Lahore.

I recall our tour guide showing us this huge Chess Board painted on one of the several courtyards where humans were used as chess pieces and moved at the Emperor’s command.

The observatory here was built by Sawai Jai Singh in 1726 to measure, local time, the sun’s declination of the fixed stars and planets to determine eclipses, all this in India dating back to 1726.

All of the above information I have taken from my photo album of our 1986 vacation. Due to space limitations, I have had to make the decision of posting just a few photos of Fatehpur Sikri, even though there is so much history in this city. The short time we spent did not do it justice.

Fatehpur Sikri city the ghost town is a marvel for engineers and builders. I don’t think you ladies would want to spend a morning walking through this ghost town. Eric (my husband) being an engineer was fascinated with Fatehpur Sikri city.

An epitome of love:



Time to move on to Agra where we shall stop and visit the magnificent Taj Mahal, a monument built to show the world of a beautiful queen and an emperor’s love for each other. Mumtaz Mahal made Shahjahan promise that he would build a tomb to remind the world of their great love, where he titled her “Chosen one of the Palace”, she died giving birth to their fourteenth child in 1631.

It took twenty-two years to create this Jewel in Agra. For over three hundred years the world has gazed at the wonder of this monument a building of a love immortalized in marble.

A sad ending to this saga on the Taj Mahal, 1657 Shah Jahand fell ill, his son Aurangzeb imprisoned his father and seized the throne. Shah Jahan remained in captivity until his death in 1666, spending these last days of his life staring into a small mirror’s reflection of the Taj Mahal where laid his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, dying with this mirror in his hand.





Photo taking of the inner chamber of the Taj is forbidden where one sees the magnificent craftsmanship. Once again thanks to the Internet photos can be obtained of the Taj Mahal with complete History for those who want to learn more about India and one of the Wonders of the World, the Taj Mahal.

For me the calligraphy seen on the Taj adds to it’s mystery, if only one were able to read these verses. The calligrapher Arranat Khan a Persian, displayed verses from their Qur’an which adds to her mystery.

Our Tour Guide translated one of the several verses for me: “O Soul, thou are at rest. Return to the Lord, at peace.”

Makes one want to know what the other verses say, this verse is so beautifully expressed, to the one you love, lying in a tomb.




We arrive at hotel Maurya Sheraton Hotel in Agra such a drop to today’s living, very incepted, after spending the previous nights in Palaces converted into Hotels.

Having spent this whole day touring both Fatehpur Sikri and the Taj Mahal we welcomed this over night rest at Maurya Sheraton Hotel, knowing it was an early rise tomorrow for our flight to Khajuraho, India.


Always hoping you will join us at the next stop. DV, we see you at Khajuraho, India.

God bless
Clare

The Rambaugh Palace, Jaipur

Thursday 10, April 1986
Udaipur/Jaipur

A short flight from Udaipur brings us to Jaipur, here we shall be staying at the beautiful Rambagh Palace Hotel, built in 1835. In the city of Jaipur, one will see the Rajasthani and Mughal architecture at it’s peak.



In 1957 Maharaja Sawai Man Singh 11 changed the Rambagh Palace into a luxury hotel.

Here are a few words taken from a travel agent’s description about the city of Jaipur.

Quote: “Jaipur is popular with most tourists, no other city in the world has a colour to its identity. When Prince Albert visited Jaipur in 1875, the ruler of the state, Sawai Ram Singh had all the buildings of its bazaars mantled pink.



The colour caught on and even today the houses along the main roads are pink, washed yearly as a rule, christening her “The Pink City”. Built in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh, the then ruler and his architect Vidhyadhar Battacharya, the plan is based on the principles of town planning laid down in the Shilpa Shastra, the ancient Hindu treaties on architecture, it’s symmetrical lanes and architecture retain the elegance of old.” End of quote.

On our entrance through the Main Gate of Rambagh Palace Hotel’s 47 acres of lawns and flowers, I remarked to Eric, “One is surrounded by beautiful flowers and manicured lawns at this Palace”. An echoed reply came from our driver Praveen, “Yes Madam, there are beautiful flowers in the front side, the left side, the right side and even on the back side”. Those words brought a quiet smile to both of us making it a very special entry to this, the next stop of our 1986 vacation.

Being in the Rajasthani area the native attire is both colourful and striking that blends in with the architect around one. Our large room was decorated in a traditional Rajasthani style a taste of Royal living with a separate sitting area. Marble floors and corridors are used throughout the Palace, the courtyard and gardens covered a large area where peacocks roamed freely.



Every corner held it’s own history and told a story of it’s own. I loved the veranda that provides an alfresco dinning option with a complete view of the sprawling Mughal gardens and fountains. To complete my thoughts of The Rambagh Palace Hotel I would use only two words: Lavishness and Luxury, spelt in capital letters.




Our stay at Rambagh Palace Hotel was short and yet so much was accomplished here. Each time I recall my stay at this Palace I think of two very special people, our driver Praveen and the young man who took care of our room and laundry, a shame I cannot recall his name. Let us name him Peter, instead of referring to him as ‘the young man’.

It was the evening after our tour of the Pink City and an elephant ride to the Amber Fort, we stopped at the Hotel’s gift shop to buy a few souvenirs when we were told that the Maharani Gayatri Devi who was on the front lawn having tea, had just left.




Praveen our driver mentioned the Maharani often comes to the Rambagh Palace for tea. Since we were leaving the following morning for Agra via Fatehpur Sikri city we would miss meeting the Maharani, a great loss on our part.

The following morning Praveen presented me with the book “A Princess Remembers” written by Maharani Gayatri Devi. I offered to pay Parveen for this book, his reply was, it is his gift to me, I told him I would accept it only if he would sign the book, which he did.

The Maharani Gayatri Devi was Jaipur’s last Queen and has appeared on lists of the world’s most beautiful women, one of India’s most glamorous and wealthy aristocrats. The book “A Princess Remembers” should be read by all who love History.

Peter the young man who took care of our room and laundry invited Eric (deceased 1989) and I to lunch at his home. Please bear in mind this young man in his early thirties, with a wife, two children of their own, a widowed mother and his unwed sister, all being supported by his small salary working at this Hotel, extending this invitation to lunch at his home. I was lost for words at this humble invitation and felt the hurt inside, having to tell him we were sorry we would not be able to accept his kind offer, as we had previous arrangements.

When we returned to our room late that evening there was a large flower arrangement on the table from his wife to me. That guilt pain dug deeper inside me on seeing this gift of flowers from his wife.




They have absolute nothing and yet, the little they had they wanted to share with us, so richly given. So poor and so humble are they, is something I have yet to see in our Western culture, this humility. These flowers accompanied me to the end of the 1986 vacation in India.

Before leaving our room for our road trip to Agra via Fatehpur Sikri city, Peter came to wish us a safe journey and asked me to promise him if ever I was in Jaipur again to please try and get in touch with him, as he wanted his wife to meet me.

Picture taking time was our next step. I asked Peter to please sit on the sofa along side me for a photograph of us together. “Oh no Madam, I cannot sit on the same chair as you, you are white and I am not”.



Here we are in the twentieth century and that ugly stigma is still with us. We finally talked him into sitting on the arm of the sofa for ‘the’ most treasured photo belonging to me, often reminding me, where I chose that tour opposed to sharing a meal with his humble family. A very poor choice, you failed hopelessly here Clare. I often wonder why did Peter choose me to be his guest for lunch in his home?

The same humble invitation was extended me by our driver in Ooty, to meet his father, mother and siblings on my 2001 Vacation to India, which will follow my 1998 vacation in India.

For those who have seen the movie “Queenie” starring Kirk Douglas should know a large percentage of this movie was filmed at The Rambagh Palace Hotel, Jaipur, India. If you haven’t seen this movie you should rent the DVD or Video, you will love the grounds and interior of this beautiful Palace.

The following photo taken in Jaipur, India is also a part of a movie called, “The Far Pavilions” this is the door both the brides come through before their marriage to the Raja. “The Far Pavilions” is one of M. M. Kaye’s best selling novels, set in India during the mid century colonial India, the scenery is spectacular.




In 1980 while living in Spain, Lynette, an American friend of mine, gave me a copy of “The Far Pavilions”, to read. Lynette thought because I was from India this book would be of interest to me. Little did she know this book would become one of my top ten novels on my bookshelf, recommended to all friends, especially to those who carry a love for India.

I know the ladies will enjoy this historic drama, interwoven with high romance, I know I did. I have read this book twice, plus endless viewing of the movie, mostly on lonely weekends when India creeps back into my thoughts replacing this loneliness with those happy memories of my youth and the1986 vacation in India with my Eric.





We leave Jaipur by car for Agra via Fatehpur Sikri city, 26 miles from Agra early tomorrow morning.

Hope to see you at Fatehpur Sikri, the sandstone city.

God bless
Clare

The Floating Palace

Today we fly from Bombay to Udaipur, India to visit the famous Lake Palace Hotel, also known as The Floating Palace.





Legend has it that when Maharana Udia Singh was out hunting he came upon a sadhu by the side of a lake. The king sought his blessings upon which the sadju advised him to build his capital near the lake. And so, in 1559 the beautiful Lake Palace was born shifting the Rajput Kings here from Chittaurgarh. Some writers have called Udaipur “the most romantic spot on the continent of India.”

Stepping out of this history frame for a moment, we must bare in mind most of the Rajas’ Palaces in India have been converted into Hotels. This was done, advice given them from Jackie Kennedy. Thanks to Jackie, I have been able not only tour Maharajas’ Palaces but stay over night in couple of them. And, all are breath taking with their rich marble floors and carvings in keeping with their history and culture. Their native traditional dress adds to the beauty and history to all their Palaces.

For those who have seen 007 Octopussy will see a part of that film taken on Lake Palace grounds. We (that is Eric & I) met one of Lake Palace Hotel employees who took a wee part in this movie. He was a tall handsome Rajput with his waxed handlebar moustache, sharing his excitement as an actor in one of Hollywood’s top movies, with us.



On our return to Texas, Eric replayed that tape and sure enough there stood our friend we met at Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur, tall and handsome as ever. My advise to all is to go into Search and type in Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur and view the photos on this Hotel. I can see someone is thinking about a visit to Lake Palace, Udahipur, you will never regret it.



Yes, there is a so much history here. The service at this hotel is A+ and what a resting place. Their swimming pool area, the rooms, their lobby, patios and restaurants are one of a kind. You are living the Rajput style dating back centuries in this beautiful Palace floating on a lake.



Needless to say I have several photo albums of my travels but the ones on India rank number one for me. I should mention that their colourful unique stationary blends in with the time period to each of these Palace Hotels.



Hope you enjoyed our short visit to the beautiful Lake Palace Hotel, Udahipur India.

Would love to hear from others who have stayed at Lake Palace Hotel, in Udahipur, India.

God bless
Clare
To be continued on Part Three

Bombay, India: 5, April 1986

The Gateway of India was built 19ll to commemorate the visit of King George V.


You will notice not much will be mentioned on Bombay other than she is a large city and from where our first journey through India commences on this Blog.

The Raj & Beyond Blog is my Gateway for folks to enter around a common subject: INDIA.

What better way to commences our journey, “The Raj & Beyond” then through “The Gateway of India” Bombay, India.

The above photo was taken in 1986, my first return to India after leaving her in 1950. I have now re-opened that Gateway to all India’s families, friends, the young and old, to the sharing of our memories, thoughts and life long dreams. There are so many beautiful places in India waiting to be discovered and shared with the world. Over here I shall do my best to share my journey, my thoughts and my several happy memories of India with all of you.

Thanks to this new technology known to us as the Internet we can share our memories and photographs with the world mixing fiction with nonfiction articles. Recalling parents and grandparents’ stories, notes taken from diaries or sharing your first vacation experiences to this historical country where stands one of the World’s Wonders. The splendor of the magnificent, Taj Mahal, Agra, India.

One must remember Father Time waits for no one. We all have stored up memories, lets open that wave band and attach them to “The Raj & Beyond” for all those who are anxiously waiting to hear your thoughts and see old and new photographs on this Blog, remembering we are treading through both the Raj and the Beyond. One must move forward and not stagnate in the past of the Raj days. Growth from the Raj Days is a subject most of us want to hear also. Let us share the building of our lives that stemmed from The Raj days, and oh yes, photos of the past and present will complete this large picture.

Thanks.

God bless.
Clare
To be continued:

WELCOME TO THE RAJ & BEYOND

My name is Clare Johnstone, I am one of the many domiciled British that lived in Kharagpur, India, from 1930 until 1950. I am creating this blog about my birthplace, India, in the hopes of contacting some of the many childhood friends I had growing up in India during the time of The Raj.

My focus of this blog is to show India as I remembered it, and also as it is today. I will be including photos, biographies, and snipets of our wonderful memories of Kharagpur and India in general.

Thanks to Sukh for the following photos of The Stadium



Wynn Court




and the Masonic Lodge.



I look forward to meeting lots of old and new friends.

God Bless

Clare